Where I Ate the Best Chilaquiles in Mexico City
Ohhhhh chilaquiles. Proof that the simplest dishes are often the most obsessed over. At their core, chilaquiles are simply chips and salsa. Humble ingredients, zero pretension, incredibly flavorful.
And yet finding the best chilaquiles in Mexico City has become an unofficial breakfast quest. The salsa matters. The ratios matter. Whether those chips still have a little crunch or have gone soggy matters.
I’ve devoured many plates of chilaquiles in my numerous trips to Mexico City. So consider this your guide to the spots that are genuinely worth the calories, including where to try the famous torta de chilaquiles in Mexico City without sacrificing half your morning waiting in line.
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1. El Caimancito
📍 Location: Condesa (map)
El Caimancito doesn’t fit neatly into one category. Breakfast and fresh seafood on the same menu sounds odd until you taste how well they pull off both. And in my opinion, they serve the best chilaquiles in Mexico City.
The flavor of the tatemada (fire roasted) salsa and the crunch of the totopos were exactly what I wanted. The menu includes your normal toppings: fried egg, chicken, or steak. But it also includes surf and turf chilaquiles topped with arrachera and shrimp. And that’s what I’ll be ordering next time.
El Caimancito earned its spot in my guide to the best places to eat breakfast in Mexico City. The huevos rancheros and enchiladas are reason enough to go back after you’ve had the chilaquiles.
Love mariscos? You’ll also want to read my guide to the best seafood in Mexico City.
2. Torta de Chilaquiles at Tortas Catakil
📍 Location: Chapultepec Park (map)
Tortas de chilaquiles are quintessentially Chilango — the proud, slightly irreverent nickname for people from Mexico City — who have an infatuation with bolillos, aka a simple bread roll.
This dish is just like it sounds. Red or green chilaquiles are stuffed into a bolillo with your choice of meat and the usual toppings of queso, crema, and onion. The chips soften as they sit in the sauce, then get enveloped in a soft bolillo.
Torta de chilaquiles is one of the most unique street foods in Mexico City. It started at La Esquina de Chilaquil (map). But I found another spot that’s just as good, if not better, and you don’t have to wait in line for 45 minutes.
What I love about Tortas Catskill is that they fry the pollo de milanesa (thin breaded chicken) on the spot so that it’s hot and fresh. They also offer cochinita pibil and shredded chicken. Or if you can’t decide, order una bomba which combines all three.
It also happens to sit right next to the city’s largest park which is the perfect excuse to find a bench, devour your torta, and spend the rest of the morning exploring Bosque de Chapultepec.
Tip – These chilaquiles are messy. Keep it wrapped in the bag as you eat.
3. Chilakiller’s Loungeria
📍 Location: Tacubaya (map) – just south of Condesa
I’m ranking Chilakiller’s Loungeria as the most fun place to eat chilaquiles in Mexico City, but that’s not to demote the flavor. The name alone should tell you everything.
The restaurant is decked out with Mexican memorabilia, vintage photographs, and Star Wars themed pieces that somehow feel completely at home. If you want the full experience, come on the weekend when they open the second floor seating. It’s so packed with memorabilia that you could spend an entire meal just taking it all in.
The chilaquiles are available in two sizes with your choice of salsa: verde, roja, mole, frijoles, etc. And your choice of protein: arrachera, cecina, costilla, etc. as well as some vegetarian options.
I ordered a small bowl of chilaquiles in salsa roja with arrachera. At first I thought the salsa looked watery. But when I dug into the totopos, I found they were smothered and had already soaked up a lot of the flavorful sauce. The arrachera was perfectly cooked and seasoned with black pepper.
The menu also includes tortas, molletes, and various egg dishes. But with a name like chilakillers, why would you eat anything else?
4. Chilaquiles Rellenos at El Abuelo
📍 Location: Cuauhtémoc (map)
El Abuelo serves a version of chilaquiles I’ve not seen before. Rather than loading the protein on top, they’re stuffed inside. I half expected them to be heavy and fried, but they arrived soft and pillowy, more like a tender stuffed corn pocket.
That said, I noticed every local eating there ordered the regular chilaquiles. Having tasted the sauces, I completely understand why. They’re deeply flavorful and arguably the real star of the menu. The regular chilaquiles are also nearly half the price, which doesn’t hurt.
Whether you choose to order the traditional or chilaquiles rellenos, El Abuelo is a solid choice. I also recommend their agua de jamaica to wash it down. It’s strong and not too sweet, which can be hard to find.
5. El Divino Chilaquil
📍 Location: Centro (map)
El Divino Chilaquil is a tiny spot in downtown Mexico City with a focused menu and a surprisingly personal approach to chilaquiles. You choose your sauce, your crema flavor (normal, cilantro, or chipotle), and your spice level. Small details that add up to something genuinely customized.
I went with chilaquiles de arrachera, salsa morita, and celestial (medium) spice level. The salsa morita delivered a deep, smoky undertone that paired perfectly with the lightly grilled arrachera. The place gets busy, but there’s an additional seating area upstairs with fans to keep you cool while you eat.
Tips for Ordering Chilaquiles
- Pick your salsa. The most common choice is between a tangy salsa verde made with tomatillos or a savory salsa roja. But my favorite is salsa morita which delivers a subtle smokiness with just enough heat.
- Add a protein. Eggs can be ordered estrellados (sunny side up) or revueltos (scrambled). Other common options are cecina or shredded chicken. What sets the chilaquiles in Mexico City apart is finding arrachera and cochinita pibil as common options alongside the classics.
- Confirm the toppings. A standard plate of chilaquiles is topped with crema, queso, and onions. Your server will typically ask if you’d like all of them. The answer is yes. Crema took a while to grow on me, but I later learned not all crema is created equal — and the good stuff makes the dish.
Finding the Best Chilaquiles in Mexico City
Consider the quest complete. Whether you prefer to sit down to a bowl or grab a torta de chilaquiles on the go, the best chilaquiles in Mexico City are waiting for you. And now you know exactly where to find them.
CDMX has turned chips and salsa into an art form. Few cities take this breakfast dish so seriously. Your only job now is to show up hungry.